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“Perfectly deadly android beauty” Alex Box

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2010/11 - Make Up by Alex Box using M·A·C Cosmetics

“Gareth Pugh’s emblematic chevron is also one of the symbols of Art Deco, and the glamour of the Deco years in Hollywood was one of the sub-currents in the designer’s latest collection. That meant he continued to move away from the hard alien edge that was once his signature in favor of a more sinuous line. Karlie Kloss in an obi-belted cashmere wool coat with matching flared pants? Nouvelle Dietrich! Likewise the full-length fishtailed gown in chevrons of chiffon and leather, with a capelet draped over the shoulders. Twenty-first-century Adrian!” Tim Blanks, STYLE.COM

Make up artist Alex Box, heading the M·A·C Pro team, flipped differing sizes of lashes upside down, applying them slightly above the lash line, using black PRO Creme Liner to fill in the gap within the inner half of the lash line, fixing upward-brushed brows with Clear Brow Set. Studio Sculpt Foundation was applied onto lips after Lip Conditioner, to block out any lip colour, and also over the face, followed by Silver Dusk Loose Powder on cheekbones and the bridge of the nose. Studio Sculpt Foundation was then re-applied over this to soften the sparkle. Box then airbrushed the models’ foreheads with Black Airbrush Colour, creating a sombre effect.

Frida Gustavsson in neoprene-backed leather and Abbey Lee Kershaw in leather/chiffon chevrons

“Gareth wanted a slightly “Hollywood” feel to the hair this season. I wanted to compliment the collection with an elegant feel. At the front, I added height to the crown and swept the hair away from the face giving it a more graceful look, and to the back, we separated the hair into ponytails which were interconnected to create a graphic harlequin pattern.” Martin Cullen

“Gareth Pugh is inching his signature style forward and making sure that his penchant for cut-and-pieced black leather does not turn into a constraint. Technically, this collection was a tour de force with the leather worked with precise chevron cutting into soft shapes like a swinging cape.” Suzy Menkes, INTERNATIONAL HERALD TRIBUNE

Patricia van der Vliet and Abbey Lee Kershaw wear cashmere suiting with draped chains detailing

“My starting point for the nails was to use Gareth’s chevron theme and team it with the ‘black blend to nude’ seen in the make up. The silhouette of the collection was angular with the occasional hint of softness, so I translated this onto many of the nails for the girls. The shape of the nails were cut into a chevron with the apex in the centre of the 4 fingers to mirror the main theme. They had a base colour of CND Ivory Coast with blended chevrons of black following the shape. This gave the angular sharpness with the softer ‘blend to nude’.” Marian Newman

“His chevron-spliced leathers looked like fat pieces of liquorice twisted into capes and curvy peplumed jackets in black and grey. Pugh’s strength is that he’s an outsider who’s willing to work like a sorcerer’s apprentice until he finds perfection in new, geometrically-inspired techniques. This he did with fine metal necklace chains in cascading layers for willowy dresses which shimmer, shiver and slither with every move.” Rebecca Voight, INTERVIEW


Angular chevron nails by Marian Newman for CND

“I have long been fascinated with metal chains imitating the movement and feel of fabric. To compliment the draped chains of some of the pieces in the collection, miniature versions of the chains were applied to the chevron nails as an accessory. Long, swaying, swirling chains on some had a shorter ‘day version’ on others. Following the tougher theme of the menswear, CND Asphalt (a charcoal grey) was used on the boys nails with a super glossy finish to compliment the chic leather in the collection.” Marian Newman

“An unsurprising palette of black and grey made for a signature sinister collection from Gareth Pugh in Paris tonight, but more fragile workings of layered chiffon, raw-edged asymmetric hems and finger-knitted chiffon long, draped cardigans added a gorgeous romance. A triumphant Pugh is enjoying the limelight currently – his front row featured Grace Coddington, Mario Testino, Ellen von Unwerth, Leigh Lezark, Sean Combs and Carine Roitfeld to prove the strength of his fashion status – and this collection will give him more reason to celebrate.” Dolly Jones, VOGUE.COM


Chain nails by Marian Newman for CND

“Over the past couple of seasons showing in Paris, Pugh has perfected his means of production, polished his silhouettes, fit and finishes. In short, he’s reinvented his raw early work as a true luxury product - and hence, this collection can be seen as something of a greatest hits rather than a new release. That soundtrack Pugh opened his show with was taken from ‘Legend’. The boy’s well on the path to becoming one himself.” Alex Fury, SHOWstudio

http://www.garethpugh.net/

mandix
mandi’s basement

rubik kubrick 2
edition of 300
70 x 50cm
6 colour screen print on pure white recycled 250gsm paper
£75

http://www.picturesonwallS.com/Art_Artists.asp?Artist=Space%20Invader&Offset=0&PageNo=1
http://www.space-invaders.com/

mandix
mandi’s basement